View from the Archive – Recipes Through the Decades

This year, the staff published a new school cookbook to raise funds for our Opening Doors bursary campaign.

Our archivist, Jo Coates, traces its history back to 1926, when the very first school recipe book was produced.

‘The family of an alumna, Maureen Cohen (nee Collier) who attended South Hampstead in the 1930s, recently got in touch to hand over a copy of what I believe is the very first South Hampstead cookbook, published in 1926 to raise funds for the Jubilee Wing. The forward is written by Mrs Joseph Conrad, wife of the famous novelist, and reflects a very different time:

“We ask of a man that he shall provide a home, the best in his power, and it is up to the wife to acquire the knowledge necessary to keep that home in a proper manner, and to produce meals, either with the aid of a servant, or by her own efforts, up to time and properly cooked.”

The recipes also come from a bygone era, from jellied salad (tomatoes, cucumber and gelatine) and braised tongue, to marrow cream (marrows, sugar and lemon juice) and potato cakes (mashed potato, dripping, sugar and raisins), although some perennial classics feature too: scones, bakewell tart and macaroni cheese.

In 2002, the staff produced another cookbook to raise funds for the Camden Soup Kitchen, this time produced in colour and with photos. There are plenty of vegetarian and international recipes, from Azerbaijani biscuits to Filipina spring rolls. The staff editors, Sara Bell and Vicky Spawls, managed to obtain recipes from celebrities such as Rick Stein and Clive Anderson, and a ragout of lamb and couscous from Tony Blair. The Ivy contributed Spaghetti ai Funghi and Ken Livingstone, a recipe for roast winter vegetables.

When our Junior School chef Ellen retired in 2022, after 18 years of preparing wholesome meals at the Junior School, the PTA produced a book of her recipes, packed with quick, nutritious recipes. Our most recent recipe book, produced this year, encompasses diverse family favourites submitted by staff and alumnae: Japanese pancakes, tortellini boscaiola, empanadas, and quick vegan options. The collection of cookbooks provide a fascinating glimpse into the shifting eating habits of the past century.’

If you would like to purchase a copy of our Opening Doors Cookbook or Food from Ellen’s Kitchen, please contact alumnae@shhs.gdst.net